Home Inspection and Real Estate Forum for Home Inspectors and Real Estate Professionals
  [Search] Search   [Recent Topics] Recent Topics   [Hottest Topics] Hottest Topics  
[Register] Register / 
[Login] Login 
Messages posted by: Dan Hagman
Forum Index » Profile for Dan Hagman » Messages posted by Dan Hagman
Author Message
It could be a bench footing, sometimes called a Dutch wall, when the basement floor has been lowered in an old house for additional ceiling height this is added to help support the original footing. Not saying that is what it is, I do see these walls all the time in older homes and they are usually pretty solid.
Kevin, a 4" bow is massive. Did you put a laser on it to verify? Zero to 1/2" bow has not effected the structural integrity of the wall, 1/2 to 2" it is recommend that the wall be shored up by a basement foundation professional and anything over 2" there is discussion on replacing the wall. That info was from a structural engineer and foundation professional.
Pete, it is always a good idea to note the location of all HVAC systems, proves you looked at it for one thing! Takes no time at all to add. Keep it up!
my highest is 37.9
I do base price on 1st unit and then 50% off on the 2nd and or 3rd. Its a lot of extra work, don't do it for nothing, another kitchen, bathrooms, furnace, A/C electrical panel. If he can afford to by a duplex for an investment he can pay you a good price for your services.
It goes in my report as a broken E-Glass seal and the window needs to be replaced. If you want to test the glass to be sure, just take an ice cube and a paper towel, put the ice cube on the glass and do small 6" circles for a minute holding the paper towel under the ice cube so you don't make a mess when it melts. Then wipe the window dry and if it has a broken E Glass seal the water vapor between the panes will condense on the glass and will not wipe away, if it wipes away clear than there is no problem. This is a good test that your client can see, take a picture of the window and put it in your report of the obvious circle of water vapor between the panes.
Call Target Insurance Services

Lisa Belz
Target Professional Programs
Underwriter - Home Inspectors E&O/GL
10 Tower Lane
Avon, CT 06001
Phone: 860.899.1870 Fax: 860.679.9391
Email: lbelz@target-capital.com
Please send submissions to: homeinspectors@target-capital.com

You sure he meant a coil leak requires a whole system replacement? A leak in a system that is a blend refrigerant requires a total new virgin charge, you can't just add some refrigerant to a blend, you have to recover it all and start over Repair the leak, pull it in a vacuum and charge it back up with all new refrigerant.
I like my RadStar RS300 so very easy! User friendly! from Radon Away!
It needs to be hard piped with black iron from the meter to side of the house where it can connect to the CSST flange that is mounted on the house. The CSST needs to be grounded before the first CSST joint and that will be on the black iron pipe before the flange. The ground wire needs to be no smaller than #6 solid and go to the earth ground, either the panel, the water pipe at the water meter or the 8' copper ground rod. There are 160 fires annually because of the CSST not being grounded due to lightening strikes and causing gas leaks. The average cost around here to ground the CSST is $200.00 an HVAC contractor could install black iron and put the flange on the house for less than $200.00 it is an easy job.
While walking around the house I notice water running out of the dryer vent. I went to the laundry room and discovered the washer drain hose was connected to the exterior dryer vent and the vent from the dryer was connected to the plumbing drain line. I asked the home owner and she said she did that on purpose so the heat from the (gas dryer) would keep her plumbing warm. Lol
• Remove all screens from windows and install storm windows
• Re-caulk and seal around windows and other places where water intrusion can take place
• Clean out gutters and downspouts of leaves and debris
• Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic
• Store firewood at least 30 feet away from your home
• Familiarize responsible family members with the gas main valve and other appliance valves
• Clean the clothes dryer exhaust duct, outside damper and space under the dryer
• Make sure all electrical holiday decorations have tight connections
• Check the attic for adequate ventilation
• Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter
• Shut off and isolate outside hose bib water valves
• Store garden hose so not to freeze (drain water out of hoses)
• Check the water hoses on the clothes washer, refrigerator icemaker and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles
• Test all ground-fault-circuit-interrupter (GFCI) outlets
Like I said in a previous post, I don't test an A/C under 60 degrees. I know that's debatable even down to 50 degrees.The refrigerant migrates out to the condenser and if you start is up in low ambient conditions, you take the chance of pumping liquid and damaging the valve. Unless you know that there is low ambient controls, like a crank case heater on the compressor, head pressure control to cycle the fan, then I don't do it. You can't get a good temperature drop across the evaporator in those cold conditions. When I have people at my house in the winter and it gets hot we open the windows, only makes good sense.
I had one the other day where they install a drip edge over the existing shingles at the bottom and the rake edge so it was hard to see the layers. Hard to tell!
It should do pretty good, the older furnaces started the fan on with the fan/limit switch at hotter temperatures and the new furnaces start the fan with the timed circuit board and they run a lot cooler across the heat exchanger. But I agree, doesn't look as good, but what does anymore.
Forum Index » Profile for Dan Hagman » Messages posted by Dan Hagman
Go to:   
© 2014 Inspector Services Group