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Juan Jimenez wrote:
camaro396 wrote:I assume we all tell the client that we are only allowed to perform a level 1 inspection and recommend a level 2 inspection? And say the same thing in the report?


You're allowed to do a level 1 or 2 but home inspectors can't do either.


A level one is done at every home inspection, it is a visual inspection of components that are readily visible , a level 2 is more involved which most home inspectors do not do but you can get certification , I think there is a one week class in Indiana at csia.org
I Just had a brick and pre fab fireplace class this past weekend, all components of a prefab fireplace are UL listed as a system, so any part of the system that is defective has to be replaced with exact component from the manufacturer as that is what the UL rating is based on , so in another words, no patching.In regards to the leak , if it has a metal chase cover that is rusted , you can be assured that moisture intrusion has occurred.
Brittanyf2012 wrote:I am a single mom looking for a new career. I have the money saved up to start this business and the required course work but knowing where to start is where I am having a problem. I am not sure where to start or what exact courses to take. I have some experience in electrical and general knowledge of construction. What online courses are best suited for me and which ones will prepare me for the job?


Also Brittany , along with technical knowledge , marketing is also important , without marketing you will have no business if know one knows that you are out there, I would highly suggest mentoring with someone, even if you have to pay them , in my opinion at the minimum, at least 100 ride a longs for the experience, also recommend that you take a course in report writing also.
Hard to take a 8.4 tablet in the attic or crawlspace, prefer using my phone and then upload the pictures to my One Drive account and then pull the pictures down from the cloud for the report. Another benefit is that all my pictures from every inspection is stored in the cloud.
I have a license in South Carolina and North Carolina , the SC license is just a piece of paper with a test that anyone could pass, their is no CE requirements, just send your money in every two years, now NC is a different story, they have an actual licensing home inspection board and they require 12 CE credit per year, I have come into many homes that just had a pre listing inspection and am amazed of the major items that had been missed such as leaking windows and rotted doors with high WMC at the framing.
Has anybody used the android version yet , I am just looking for a basic infrared to supplement any high moisture levels found , if anyone has , are the pictures detailed enough ?
I went thru AHIT , but the truth is even after passing the state exam you are still not ready to inspect, as other people have stated try to find a mentor but you might have to travel as no one wants to train their competition, also report writing is harder than the actual inspection ,learning how to word findings and limit liability, also don't forget your marketing,an average inspector with great marketing will be more successful than the most technical inspector with little marketing .
I ended up ordering this from Amazon, seemed to have pretty good reviews

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPEONSY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HPEONSY&linkCode=as2&tag=tacticalflashlytreviews-20&linkId=MBBUGBEQCLFRCLAJ

http://tacticalflashlightreviews.org/supernova-guardian-1300tl-professional-series-ultra-bright-tactical-led-flashlight/
Can anyone give any recommendations on flashlights, currently using a 2-D cell maglite with LED, seems to chew thru batteries weekly, thinking of going rechargeable however will this get me thru 2 inspections without recharging in between ?
Sorry, No way in hell can a crawlspace be inspected from the entrance without entering, just shining a light, might as well not have even opened the door, only thing one could tell without entering is that if the insulation is falling out of the joist area or any white fungus, assume high moisture levels without even taking a meter reading, when those scenarios exist, assume possible moisture damage to framing, if I was having a home inspection and the inspector for whatever reason would not attempt to enter the crawlspace I would not be too happy knowing that the crawlspace is where most rot/decay/structural issues are found . Just my 2 cents on this .
Charge 195 for re inspections, have a re inspection setting in Homegauge to use, also like Mike, we only note that the repair was done but not any guarantee on the work.
Here in SC, 2.09 a gallon or less premium is running about 2.35, of course we don't get the same inspection fees as you guys out west get
Mike Casey wrote:Well, that is part of it - leaks are a big issue. It's also about volume of air (related to friction loss), balance, and sound attenuation (mostly from turbulence).

Take the flexible duct installation class at the link I provided, it's only 26 minutes and free. Good info on flex duct installs, mostly what we see.

Probably one of the most common items I find is the return hole cut in the wood platform/plenum box for an air handler is smaller than the hole in the air handler - duh!


I have a certification in Manual J duct design, I have rarely seen any systems designed correctly in regards to proper duct sizing in regards to return and supply, my favorite is the central return in a hallway with undercut doorways, I can't call the design out but will call out improper bends of flex duct that restrict air movement in both the supply and return .
Saw this in a crawlspace yesterday, wood destroying fungus
I just received a 1 year membership to Nachi via Homegauge, I have to say that the forums over there are extremely hostile, also noticed that yes the same posters are posting during the day, (doing inspections ???) But I will say that the clicky group of guys at Inspectors Journal are pretty rough also .
 
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